Ile a Vache
LOCAL FISHING BOATS AT ISLE A VACHE
18°07.30N 73°41.21W 285.0 nm from Manzanillo Bay
Between the Haitian mainland and the island of La Vache you will almost certainly see ‘Bois-Fouye’ the native sailing boats.They carry a disproportional amount of sail with the crew standing on boards to balance their fine craft. The smaller boats are used for fishing and the larger ones for moving cargo and or people between the island and the mainland. Since they have no engines, when the wind drops they use long oars for propulsion. These craft are one of
the few remaining examples of sailing craft whose design hasn’t changed for generations; nor for that matter has their use.
‘A goose winged ‘Bois-Fouye’
The Bay of Feret provides a wide entrance to this idyllic natural harbor. You may anchor in the bay, although as it sweeps around to port the shelter gets even better. Steep hills cocoon the anchorage from all points and the final basin is quite likely to be as still as a millpond, whatever the weather offshore. The anchorage is named
Port Morgan after Henry Morgan who, amongst other pirates, is said to have sheltered there.
Anchor in twenty feet of water in hard sand, turn off your engine and enter the surreal tranquility of this magical place. Don’t be concerned when children paddle dug-out canoes over to greet you. Give them some candy or a cookie or better still an exercise book and a pencil and they will thank you in Creole French and quite probably in English as well.
Overlooking the bay is the hotel Port Morgan which is tastefully built into the hillside (www.port-morgan.com). The buildings blend nicely into the landscape. The hotel has a fine restaurant serving local produce with a French flavor; the architecture is in a Provence style. The proprietor of the hotel can help you with fuel and water, as well as immigration if you choose to stay. They take your documents to the mainland and return them to you for a small fee. As a result there is no need for you to go personally.
The land around the bay has only scattered housing, with no electricity or running water. Take a walk through the trees and meet the locals. They will welcome you to witness their uncomplicated lifestyle. There are no cars on the island; just horses and a few bicycles.
‘Anchored in the lee of the hotel’
PORT MORGAN
Provisions are brought in by the sailing Bois-Fouye from Les Cayes on the mainland to Madame Bernard a couple of miles east of of the anchorage. The market is held on Mondays and Thursdays. With its spicy smells and hustle and bustle, the market is something to savor; a moment right out of National Geographic. Anchoring outside either of the area is not difficult and one can dinghy in. Or if the weather is settled you can take your dinghy to the market and leave your boat anchored at Port Morgan. You can have your dinghy
watched by one of the youngsters for a small tip. They will be very grateful and you can be assured peace of mind.
PORT MORGAN ANCHORAGE
Local guides are readily available and they will pave the way for your exploration. Use your camera with discretion and get your guide to ask permission to photograph if you have any doubt.
This is a place you will never forget, where the clock stopped many years ago. You won’t want to leave!
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