CRUISING THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

The Dominican REPUBLIC does not have a long history of cruising boats.  In the past boats in the country have generally been power boats set up for fishing and kept at a yacht club by a member of the upper class.  In recent years this has changed, and now more middle class Dominicans own boats as well; the majority of which are power boats.  However, there is a growing interest in sailboats and many of the clubs have fleets of one design sailboats..  As to cruising boats from foreign countries, the only real harbors that have had extensive exposure to them, and then only over the last 10 to 15 years, has been Luperon and Samana.  Cruising sailors have generally avoided cruising the Dominican Republic and have used Luperon and Samana as jumping off points on their trek eastward.

The country does not understand why anyone would take a boat and anchor between major harbors overnight.  Culturally the way they see it, is you leave one major harbor and its marina to go to another major harbor and its marina.  This requires a Despacho from the Coast Guard, whether you are a foreign boat or a local boat.  The concept of “protecting the coastline” from drug smugglers and illegal immigration” is part of the Coast Guard’s purpose.  Thus if you ask for a Despacho with “punto intermedios” they will not give it to you, as they do not understand the purpose.  HOWEVER, having said that, you may stop along the way if you so choose to REST or to MAKE REPAIRS or for the NEED TO MAKE A PURCHASE or any other good reason.  The Despacho gives you the right to leave point A and go to point B.  When you arrive at point B, you must show the papers you received from point A.  YOU DO NOT HAVE TO CLEAR IN AGAIN, and once you indicate that you have cleared in, only the Coast Guard will want to see your despacho.  When you leave point B, the Coast Guard will issue you a new Despacho to go to point C in the Dominican Republic or to leave the country for another country.  However, Despachos are not issued for “puertos no habilitado” (ports that do not have clearence facilities).

I would never recommend breaking the law in any country and Cruising the Dominican Republic is no exception.  However, stopping to anchor in an anchorage between point A and point B, is not illegal if you have a reason that is reasonable.  That includes resting because the wind is too strong, or the need to make repairs, or the need to purchase groceries.  All ports will have a coast guardsman.  He will try to get out to your boat by using a local fishing boat or perhaps in someone’s dinghy.  He will ask to see your Despacho.  In Dominican culture, courtesy is highly prized.  If you are pleasant with him and take the time to smile and explain what you are doing, it is very unlikely he will ask you to leave.  His salary is less than $250.00 US per month, and the fisherman who brought him out gets paid nothing for his time and gasoline.  After a pleasant visit, a tip to him and the fisherman are appropriate. Give the Coast Guardsman $5.00 US and the fisherman a small bottle of local rum.  I always carry a case of Brugal Rum for such occasions with me.   If the harbor is larger than a small anchorage, but not an official entry port, and the Coast Guardsman shows up with his boss, keep in mind that the boss always gets more.  (Perhaps $5.00 + a small bottle of rum to the boss).  If your graciousness is not well received, keep smiling and be patient.  Everyone believes that something is better than nothing, and after a time of discussion and some confusion, everyone will leave.  NEVER LOSE YOUR PATIENCE and always be gracious.  Any other comportment is not the DOMINICAN WAY and you ARE IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC.

In the DR, life can be challenging.  Citizens want to follow the law but many times conditions in the country require modifications due to a variety of reasons.

Here is a simple example.  On the way to your mother’s house to drop off a 5 gallon bottle of water, you made a wrong turn and were stopped by the police.  Sometimes you get a ticket, but if it was that you were late for work, and that to get to your mother’s house you would have had to go another mile to get to a legal turn, after a great deal of discussion, many times you will be excused.   The culture understands hardship and unless you are just rude and unlawful, people make allowances; that is very ingrained in the culture.  In order to successfully “cruise” the DR with stops “along the way”, you must LEARN THE DOMINICAN WAY.  Once you do,         you will have gained access to an abundance of pristine anchorages.

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