The DR has three coasts.  North Coast,  East Coast and South Coast.

NORTH COAST

The North Coast has wonderful harbors on the western end (Monticristi and Manzanillo).  However, from Luperon going East, the north coast is an extremely difficult coast.  The waters of the Atlantic are rough and when the trade winds are blowing or a “norther” comes down from the United States, the North Coast is beyond difficult; it can be outright dangerous.  There really is no place to stop east of Luperon that is safe and when the wind is from the NE or from the E with seas from the NE, the entirety of the North Coast is not tenable.  You will find yourself riding big seas on a windbound coast.  To transit the north coast one needs to be an experienced sailor.  If you rely on your motor, it must be in good condition and your tank and filters clean.  Spare filters should be kept handy and all other precautions should be taken.  And one must understand weather beyond casually.  You must understand the interaction of a “norther” coming down from the States and the Katabatic winds that come off shore at night.  The biggest cape that you will pass on this transit is Cape “Frances Viejo”.  It means in English, Cape old Frenchman.  He probably got old trying to pass the cape as it seems to take forever to do so.

The key to the north shore, is prepare, prepare and prepare or avoid the coast entirely.

EAST COAST

BE VERY CAREFUL ON THIS COAST!

The East Coast has one grand and beautiful harbor at the NE end.  It is the Bay of Samana.  In the bay is the wonderful town of Santa Barbara and the incredible national park, Los Haitises.  There are also many other anchorages and quaint towns up bay and in addition at the entrance of the bay is Cayo Levantado; a wonderful day anchorage for swimming, fresh fish, wonderful beach etc.

The Bay of Samana lies between Cabo Cabron and Cabo Engano.  Translated  it means essentially Cape Lie and Cape Cheat.  I have no question as to how these capes got their names.  They are difficult and hard to predict and both have bad reputations.  Going south from Samana, whether you go due south or southeast to Puerto Rico, it requires careful planning.  The east coast of the Dominican Republic and the Mona Passage, can be violent and dangerous.  It is not a place for novice sailors.  It is a haunting coast of shifting sandbars and unpredictable currents.  Where winds change direction as they bounce off the capes and can accelerate to double their velocity.  The marinas on the East Coast, Punta Cana and CapCana have narrow shallow entrances that are difficult in settled weather and impossible if a sea is running from the NE or east.  The small anchorage Punta Macao is anything but an anchorage.  It is a niche in the beach and to use it the weather has to be very settled and preferably from the SE, which is rare early in the season.

SOUTH COAST

Nothing in life is perfect, but the south coast of the DR is as good as it gets.  First you are in the lee of the big island of Hispaniola.  The western part of the south coast is further sheltered by the extensive cape at Beata.

The Caribbean sea is more “user friendly” than the Atlantic Ocean.  At the west end of the south coast there is Bahia Las Aguillas; absolutely stunning.  The Island Isla Beata is easy to anchor behind, out of the trade winds, and is as close to idyllic as it gets.  Going east from Isla Beata is what amounts to be a large bay.  On the west side is the town of Barahona which is close to Largo Enriquillo (the only sub sea level lake in the Caribbean.  A national park with live crocodiles and very unexplored).  The east side of the “bay” hosts Palmar de Ocoa and Las Salinas; both beautiful and excellent stops.  From Las Salinas there is a nice day stop along the way called Punta Palenque and from there only a short distance to Boca Chica.  Boca Chica is a wonderful Dominican Tourist town and it is very close both to the International Airport (Las Americas) and the capital of Santo Domingo which is well worth seeing and in particular the “old city”.

After Boca Chica is the Rio Cumayasa, as well as Isla Catalina, Casa de Campo and Isla Saona; each different and each interesting depending on your taste and desires.

While one must always be alert at sea, the South Coast of the DR is truly user friendly and I believe you will agree that you will find a plethora of cruising opportunities along its shores.

Related posts:

1. A CRUISING GUIDE TO:THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC by Frank Virgintino
2. East Coast Summary
3. Puerto Palenque

SAMANA (Santa Barbara)   Lat 19.11. N   Lon  69.19 W

After anchoring a small local boat filled with officials came alongside.  They included: Marina Guerra (Coast Guard), M-2 (Intelligence), Migration (Immigration), Portuario (Ports), Aduana (Customs) and Drugs.  All were pleasant and went about their work.

First I gave my “Despacho” from my previous port to the Marina Guerra Officer.  He accepted it and that completed his work.  Next Immigration wanted to see our passports to see if they had been stamped when we entered the country.  No problem with that.  She inspected them and found them properly stamped.  However she did ask for a receipt form from Immigration at the prior port which we were not given, and accepted the explanation that we were not given one.  The important thing is that the passports had been stamped.  (When you clear in BE SURE your passports are stamped).  Drugs and Intelligence then asked to inspected the boat.  I gave them the go ahead and remained with them.  Their inspection was cursory and lasted less than 5 minutes.  They were very polite and careful.

Lastly, Ports asked for a fee of $.70 US per foot for anchoring.  This is a one time fee.  I explained that the fee under the law only applies to using a Dock (called MUELLE) in the DR.  As there was no dock and we were not tied to a dock, the fee was not applicable.  I was very polite and explained it carefully in Spanish.  However, had I explained it in English they would have understood anyway.  The representative from Ports then told me that if I did not want to pay, I would have to come ashore to see her supervisor.  I agreed and everyone departed.  An hour later I arrived at the Ports building and went in to see the supervisor.  The representative who had spoken with me earlier was also there as well as 3 or 4 other “assistants”.  I explained that the law did not apply to anchoring and that the only port in the DR that was assessing seventy cents US per foot was Samana and that the charge was not called for.  The supervisor called his superior and told him that he had a fellow who did not want to pay because he contended that the law did not apply (Law 519-5).  I do not know what the supervisor told him, but I was allowed to leave without paying.

The TRUTH is that the Ports charge IS ONLY for using a DOCK (Muelle pronounced Mway yah), owned by the governmentand the charge of seventy cents US is per foot for up to 24 hours.  I once used the dock in Barahona to load my groceries which took about 15 minutes and they made me pay for the entire day.  Ports is a commercial government agency accustomed to working with commercial boats.  In the case of Santa Barbara Samana, the charge is uncalled for and illegal.   You can pay the charge or politely refuse at which point they will ask you to come to the Ports building to speak with the supervisor.

However, I recommend that you do not miss Santa Barbara de Samana.  The town was founded by freed American slaves in the mid 1850s and there was more freed slave immigration from the United States as time went by.  The town itself is remote, and while it is a Dominican town by any standard, it is not a typical Dominican town in so many ways, least of all its “hybrid culture”.

Santa Barbara de Samana

The town area is alive with life and movement and you can take a rickshaw (motor concho with covered roof)  for 35 pesos ($1.00 US) for 1 one person or 40 pesos for two, which will take you from one side of town to the other.  At the west end of town you will find the supermarket and the open fruit and vegetable market.  This particular fruit and vegetable market is my favorite in the entire country.  You will not believe the variety of produce that you see or the prices being asked (inexpensive).  Beautiful Avocados (large) for .60 US each.  Sweet eating oranges 12 for 25 pesos (about .80 US).  Bananas at about .12 to .15 cents US each depending on size.  Root vegetable, carrots the size of a small baseball bat, Sweet Potatos the size of a soccer ball.  Fresh honey sold in recycled rum bottles.  If you make a large purchase do not forget to ask for your lagniappe (free extra—it is customary and will gain you respect).

As you walk east down the main drag you will come to a row of brightly colored Victorian buildings which house banking services, restaurant, art shop and other stores of interest.  Along the way there are also banks with ATM machines.  There is also a Western Union office.  There are car rental services should you choose to rent a car.  You can make a day trip to the famous waterfalls at El Limon.  There is also a small whale museum in town.

There has been reported dinghy and dinghy motor theft in Santa Barbara, so be sure to secure your dinghy at night.  The harbor is otherwise secure from the weather and easy to anchor in.  There is a small reef at the NE side of the harbor where the water drops below 6 feet.  And there are many spots in the harbor where the average depth is 20 feet.    Do not anchor in what is the obvious but unmarked channel as there is ferryboat traffic.  There is no dinghy dock, but you can access a ladder at the town dock.  If you leave your dinghy there be sure to chain it and the motor.  Also would be a good idea to ask the guard to watch it for you and give him a tip when you return.  ($3.00 to $5.00 US depending on how long he watches it for you).

From Santa Barbara de Samana you can get a Despacho to go to Los Haitises National Park (Bahia San Lorenzo)  which is a “Do not miss destination”.  One of the best and most beautiful anchorages in the world, and Native American cave art to see as well.

From the town of Samana,  you can also spend a delightful day at Cayo Levantado anchored in front of the beach.  Fresh fish and music make for a perfect day.  You cannot stay anchored at Cayo Levantado for the night and must go back to Santa Barbara.

Once you decide to leave Samana Bay you can go north and west to explore the north shore of the DR with the wind behind you.  Or you can cross the Mona Passage on your way to Puerto Rico.  Or you can head south and west to Isla Saona at the SW corner of the DR and then explore the south coast of the DR with its numerous anchorages and harbors.  Be sure to get your “Despacho” before you depart.  If you are going south to see more of the DR, your Despacho would be to Cap Cana or to Casa de Campo or Boca Chica.  Despachos are only issued to “Puertos Habilitado” (Ports that have full immigration, customs and coast guard facilities).  If you are going north shore of the DR your despacho will be to Puerto Plata (Ocean World) or Luperon or Manzanillo.

If you have the time, explore the entire Bay of Samana, especially if you like out of the way quaint anchorages that are part of very small towns.  I have cruised the Bay of Samana extensively many times and have never once seen a cruising sailboat beyond Los Haitises National Park.

BAY OF SAMANA

Related posts:

1. Santa Barbara (de Samana)
2. Entrance Requirements

The Ports and Harbors section of the guide is broken down between the South Coast, East Coast and North Coast with listings of individual locations as follows:

• South Coast
• East Coast
• North Coast

Related posts:

1. THREE COASTS–THREE PERSONALITIES
2. A word about the author

At the mouth of Samana Bay (north side) is the island of Lavantado which is a favorite visiting stop for cruise ships and has all the ingredients of an exotic Caribbean island.

Bleached white sandy beaches, lush green grass and palm tree shade are all here. There are three jetties suitable for a dinghy the most easterly is private to the hotel Gran Bahia but you may use either of the other two which are in constant use by tourist boats. In order to cater for cruise ship guests there are plenty of gift shops and a round tropical cocktail bar on the beach. There are two restaurants open to the general public. One is a large covered area serving lobster and fish in cafeteria style and the other is ‘Ballena Blanca’ on the beach. Here you may sample truly traditional Dominican cuisine. All washed down with the local Presidente beer. Unfortunately they both close by four pm, although if you talk to the proprietor at the Belena he will willingly stay open
later.

19°09.92N 69°16.67W

12.2 nm from Los Haitis (Bahia de San Lorenzo)

The most eastern half of the island is dominated by the Gran Bahia hotel whose restaurant is solely available to guests. However, at the western end of the island, you can find many facilties that will happily sell you a fresh fish lunch or for that matter, virtually any lunch you may desire.  However, the fresh fish, lobster and other local catches, is the right choice for lunch.

While you may anchor during the day in the lee of the island off the sandy beach you are required to up anchor by late afternoon. This is due to Coast Guard (Marina Guerra) requirements.   Illegal emigration to Puerto Rico from the DR is of concern, and any boat anchored out at the island at night is suspect.  As the sun goes down, you can return to Santa Barbara, just a few miles westward to anchor for the night.

Related posts:

1. Bahia Escondida (Hidden Bay)
2. Santa Barbara (de Samana)
3. Catalina Island

Los Haitises National Park, LOWER BAY—SOUTH SIDE
19°.05.79N 69°29.19W
9.5 nm from Rio Yuna

(Although the name includes the word Haiti there is no association with the country)

“THIS IS A “DO NOT MISS ANCHORAGE”

The park is in the southwest corner of Samana Bay and the administration office is tucked amid the rocks to the left of some abandoned pier pilings within Bahia de San Lorenzo, although the building is seldom manned. As of this writing, you may stay in the park for two days for 100 pesos per person per day.

The park is administered by staff from the Environmental Agency (medio ambiente). They will approach your boat in a launch. Invite the commander and his assistant to board your boat. Pay the fee, ask any questions you may have, and remember a small gift or small tip is always appreciated. However you choose to thank them, your stay in this park will be priceless. (Officially they may tell you that you need a permit obtained in advance to anchor. However, in all likelihood you will be permitted to stay. I still do not know exactly how or where one obtains the permit).

If you traveled along the northern coast of Samana Bay at all,you may be better prepared for your initial view of this scenery, since your senses of awe will be overwhelmed. It is in every sense breathtaking and there are insufficient superlatives to do it justice. If an artist were to visit they would delight in the natural light. The hills, covered with dense deep green vegetation, rise majestically skyward. Back behind them are misty blue/green mountains. Once the initial shock has dissipated one can relax into thoughts of creation and indeed Mother Nature herself, for this is truly a work of art on her part.

Allow yourself plenty of time to explore since there is so much to see. The edges of the rocks hover six inches above the water due to erosion over centuries as if to remind you of their age. All around are birds; their lifestyle unchanged for generations and one can imagine pterodactyls soaring above. Time stands still here. One of the markers of time is the drawings inside the limestone caves. At approximately 19°04.82N 69°28.06W, (to the west of the abandoned pier pilings) find the entrance to a creek leading to the caves. The water shallows to two feet with mangroves to one side so beware puncturing your inflatable.

Paddle your craft to the end of the creek and capture the tranquility of the mangrove swamp as you walk along the path to the caves. Once inside there are information posters. In the caves one can clearly see ancient markings and flash photography is allowed. Savor the damp tranquil atmosphere previously shared by Native Americans, many generations ago.

Capture the fresh smell of the salt air and vegetation, breathe deep the clean air. In the early morning watch the sun burn off the mist and listen to virtually nothing apart from the occasional bird or the splash of a fish. This is a truly remarkable anchorage. Most often you will be alone or perhaps with one other boat. This anchorage rates with the best in the Caribbean, if not the world. No description can do it justice……go see for yourself!

Related posts:

1. CAYOS SIETE HERMANOS (National Park)
2. Saona Island (National Park)
3. Bahia Escondida (Hidden Bay)

19°11.61N 69°37.19W
2.0 nm from Sanchez

Moving west there is a delta of four rivers which feed Samana bay, Rio Yuna, Bochiquita, Cano and Colorado. The largest Rio Yuma shallows to two feet at the mouth with a partially submerged motorboat a little way into the river. Despite the river being less than two feet deep during dry spells it invites the adventurous to ‘Gunk Hole’, a rare and unusual opportunity for the cruising yachtsman these days.

If you are not a fan of isolation and natural beauty, as this area exemplifies, then this is not the place for you. With a backdrop of misty mountains in the near distance this is truly virgin territory.  You can anchor anywhere here in 10′ of water; however, do not be surprised if you are the only boat around.  This area is not very frequented by cruising yachtsmen who are in a rush to leave Samana and “make their” easting to the “Caribbean Islands”.

Related posts:

1. Bahia Escondida (Hidden Bay)
2. Bahia de San Lorenzo (Los Haitises National Park)

“El Spigon” at Sanchez

19°13.12N 69°36.82W
18.0 miles from Santa Babara

The URL link to YOUTUBE, is a good indication of the local flavor of the town.

In the town of Sanchez, Samana

At the uppermost northwest corner of Samana bay is Sanchez a commercial port which is conveniently tucked out of sight behind the fishing village also named Sanchez which is the preferred anchorage. Since the jetty has fallen into disrepair a better place for your dinghy is beached with the colorful fishing boats on the sandy beach immediately to starboard.

Here you will receive a warm welcome from the local fishing folk and the many children who play in the sand. Behind the fishing boats fishermen repair their nets, where there is also a small café.

There is a kitchen where the womenfolk cook the fresh fish, crabs and crawfish which the children have helped to clean. Although this is not a restaurant they are more than willing to sell you some of this freshly cooked fare.

Related posts:

1. Rio Yuna
2. East Coast Summary
3. Santa Barbara (de Samana)

19°11.69N 69°26.93W
6.2 nm from Bahia Escondida

Punta Del Botado has a red marker buoy 200 feet off the end of a long concrete pier.

This is a landing dock for cargo ships and has forty feet of water all around making anchoring difficult.

Essentially a small local stop, set up for small cargo ships.  Not a recommended area to anchor.

Related posts:

1. Punta Cana Marina
2. East Coast Summary
3. Boca De Yuma

Marina at Bahia Escondida

Going westward along the north shoreline of Samana Bay, the first of many anchorages, is a small bay tucked behind and to the west of the long raised causeway to the island of Cayo Vigie.

Heading UP BAY—WEST
19°11.68N 69°20.32W
1.75 nm from Santa Babara

One mile onward is PUERTO BAHIA, the site of private residences and a new marina facility (shown above).          19.11.613 N 69.21.392 W.  This facility can serve as an alternative to anchoring at Santa Barbara Samana for those who prefer a marina.

The bay has a private beach and two small hotels with access to Samana town up a step hill. Anchor in nine feet of water over a muddy bottom with some protection from the trade winds.

Anchorages:

All along this coastline are numerous anchorages which all have their own sandy beaches with a backdrop of coconut trees and luscious green hills. Feel free to call anyone of them your own as it is unlikely that you will have much company, if any. You will find yourself sailing from one anchorage you describe as the perfect place, to another which seems to surpass all others. It is impossible to put them in any order of merit as they are all quintessential Caribbean anchorages.

Related posts:

1. Bahia de San Lorenzo (Los Haitises National Park)
2. East Coast Summary
3. Cayo Laventado

19°11.44N 68°18.96W
56.0 nm from Punta Cana

Once inside the Bay of Samana the first port available to the cruising yachtsman on the north coast of the bay is Santa Barbara de la Samana.  (Yachtsmen normally refer to the town as “Samana”)

Enter along the north coast following a marked channel to the north of Cayo Levantado. Since the anchorage is a few miles into the bay and bordered by islands there is reasonable protection from the sea. There is seventeen feet of water to anchor in with good holding in a muddy bottom.

You may clear customs and immigration at Santa Barbara, if this is your first port of call in the Dominican Republic. Clearing in is not difficult, but not exactly straightforward.  Santa Barbara shares the same problem as Luperon with regard to being “inventive” for charges for visiting yachtsmen.  Immigration, Coast Guard (marina guerra), Dept. of Drugs, M-2 (intelligence) and Dept. of Ports.  You will find them all waiting on line to charge you something.

Review the charges listed at this site, before you go in to clear.  Then make your decision as to whether you want to pay any and all charges demanded of you and clear in quickly, or whether you want to “review” each and every charge and argue the point on those that seem incorrect and clear in slowly.

After you have cleared in, you may choose to take a long walk along the causeway that borders the southern side of the harbor. It leads out to a beautiful view of the eastern portion of the bay facing Cayo Levantado. At the end of the walkway (known locally as the ‘Bridge to nowhere’, is Cayo Vigie.

SANTA BARBARA DE SAMANA

‘Anchorage at Santa Barbara de Samana’

BRIDGE TO NOWHERE in the backround
During the day the town dock is a hive of activity especially during the ‘whale watching’ season with many boats available for guided excursions. This dock also serves as a dinghy dock. At the quay, across the street is a bank with ATM machines and one block behind this is an excellent internet café and a laundry. It is well worth walking or riding into town along the waterfront to the ‘rotonda’ (roundabout). This is the centre of town with all the color and hubbub of a waterfront Dominican town. Also there is the Dominican version of the rickshaw which consists of a motorcycle attached to a covered passenger wagon, perfect for moving provisions. The fare per person is a dollar or less anywhere around town.

‘Getting around in the town’

Santa Barbara de Samana
A wide variety of provisions can be obtained at the supermarket and a truly vibrant vegetable and fruit open-air market is across the street from the supermarket. All kinds of local fruits and vegetables are on display as well as meats and fish. The vendors are highly animated and eager to do business with you. The prices in relationship to the United States or Canada are a real bargain. An entire stem of bananas (approx. 50) can be purchased for less than $7 US. Tangerines, oranges, lettuce, tomatoes, plantains, mangos, papaya and many others follow suit. Santa Barbara has good facilities for the cruising yachtsman and a great place to recuperate from the rigors of the sea. Apart from the many sights and sounds of this truly Dominican town there is access to the breathtaking waterfalls at El Limon twenty-four miles inland.

ATM machines are available at the bank immediately opposite the main jetty.

Whales

December through to March they are easy to find and easy to see as you approach Samana Bay. Stop your engine or drop your sails and lay hove to.

Most often you will see the water spouts at a distance. Once you have spotted your first one, you will spot theirs, so long as you are not in a hurry. The entrance to the Bay of Samana teems with life of all kinds, from whales to fish and seabirds. Anchored for the day behind Cayo Levantado, you will see local fisherman in small boats catching fish with nets in the same fashion as has been done for millennium. You will also see Pelicans (looking like small pterodactyls) diving into the water for their food, over and over again. With the mountains and the sky as a backdrop, there is so much color and so much to see that it is easy to lose three or four hours just being a spectator.

Most sailors look for a “tail wind” when sailing.  This is just the “tail end” of the what’s under the water.  The first time I saw this coming into the Bay of Samana, and saw a whale sounding, I was overcome with the grandeur of it all.

If you see a “spout” from a distance, keep your distance, and shut off your motor.  The show is free and has no equal.  If you feel inspired you can holler out “THAR SHE BLOWS”.

In all the years that I have visited various harbors in the DR, I have always found Santa Barbara ( Samana) to be very special.  There is a sense of excitement about this town.  Perhaps it is the waterfront.  Or the restaurants.  I know that the open air Fruit and Vegetable market at the west end of town always gets my blood running.  There you not only will buy, but for sure you will overbuy.  Everything is so good, and so relatively inexpensive.

Related posts:

1. Cayo Laventado
2. SAMANA BAY
3. East Coast Summary