Dominican Republic Cruising Guide » South Coast

THREE COASTS–THREE PERSONALITIES

Frank Virgintino — Thu, 21 Jan 2010 20:09:36 +0000

The DR has three coasts. North Coast, East Coast and South Coast.

NORTH COAST

The North Coast has wonderful harbors on the western end (Monticristi and Manzanillo). However, from Luperon going East, the north coast is an extremely difficult coast. The waters of the Atlantic are rough and when the trade winds are blowing or a “norther” comes down from the United States, the North Coast is beyond difficult; it can be outright dangerous. There really is no place to stop east of Luperon that is safe and when the wind is from the NE or from the E with seas from the NE, the entirety of the North Coast is not tenable. You will find yourself riding big seas on a windbound coast. To transit the north coast one needs to be an experienced sailor. If you rely on your motor, it must be in good condition and your tank and filters clean. Spare filters should be kept handy and all other precautions should be taken. And one must understand weather beyond casually. You must understand the interaction of a “norther” coming down from the States and the Katabatic winds that come off shore at night. The biggest cape that you will pass on this transit is Cape “Frances Viejo”. It means in English, Cape old Frenchman. He probably got old trying to pass the cape as it seems to take forever to do so.

The key to the north shore, is prepare, prepare and prepare or avoid the coast entirely.

EAST COAST

BE VERY CAREFUL ON THIS COAST!

The East Coast has one grand and beautiful harbor at the NE end. It is the Bay of Samana. In the bay is the wonderful town of Santa Barbara and the incredible national park, Los Haitises. There are also many other anchorages and quaint towns up bay and in addition at the entrance of the bay is Cayo Levantado; a wonderful day anchorage for swimming, fresh fish, wonderful beach etc.

The Bay of Samana lies between Cabo Cabron and Cabo Engano. Translated it means essentially Cape Lie and Cape Cheat. I have no question as to how these capes got their names. They are difficult and hard to predict and both have bad reputations. Going south from Samana, whether you go due south or southeast to Puerto Rico, it requires careful planning. The east coast of the Dominican Republic and the Mona Passage, can be violent and dangerous. It is not a place for novice sailors. It is a haunting coast of shifting sandbars and unpredictable currents. Where winds change direction as they bounce off the capes and can accelerate to double their velocity. The marinas on the East Coast, Punta Cana and CapCana have narrow shallow entrances that are difficult in settled weather and impossible if a sea is running from the NE or east. The small anchorage Punta Macao is anything but an anchorage. It is a niche in the beach and to use it the weather has to be very settled and preferably from the SE, which is rare early in the season.

SOUTH COAST

Nothing in life is perfect, but the south coast of the DR is as good as it gets. First you are in the lee of the big island of Hispaniola. The western part of the south coast is further sheltered by the extensive cape at Beata.

The Caribbean sea is more “user friendly” than the Atlantic Ocean. At the west end of the south coast there is Bahia Las Aguillas; absolutely stunning. The Island Isla Beata is easy to anchor behind, out of the trade winds, and is as close to idyllic as it gets. Going east from Isla Beata is what amounts to be a large bay. On the west side is the town of Barahona which is close to Largo Enriquillo (the only sub sea level lake in the Caribbean. A national park with live crocodiles and very unexplored). The east side of the “bay” hosts Palmar de Ocoa and Las Salinas; both beautiful and excellent stops. From Las Salinas there is a nice day stop along the way called Punta Palenque and from there only a short distance to Boca Chica. Boca Chica is a wonderful Dominican Tourist town and it is very close both to the International Airport (Las Americas) and the capital of Santo Domingo which is well worth seeing and in particular the “old city”.

After Boca Chica is the Rio Cumayasa, as well as Isla Catalina, Casa de Campo and Isla Saona; each different and each interesting depending on your taste and desires.

While one must always be alert at sea, the South Coast of the DR is truly user friendly and I believe you will agree that you will find a plethora of cruising opportunities along its shores.

A CRUISING GUIDE TO:THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC by Frank Virgintino

admin — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:53:36 +0000

This Guide is the result of a six week circumnavigation of the island of Hispaniola, making numerous stops as well as subsequent trips to make updates and add information.

The Ports and Harbors section of the guide is broken down between the South Coast, East Coast and North Coast with listings of individual locations as follows:

Saona Island (National Park)

admin — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 20:50:23 +0000

18°11.98N 68°46.72W
15.6 nm from Casa de Campo

La Isla Saona is a wonderful stop and a fabulous anchorage. If the anchorage becomes rolly, move to the north and west to Palmillas, which is protected and excellent as well. However, I prefer Punta Catuan, because no one else is generally anchored here, and you will usually have the place to yourself.

In the addition the Coast Guard Station will be right in front of you. You can swim, fish, and take your dinghy into the “cut” between the island and the mainland. Actually if your boat draws 5′ or less, you can take your whole boat into the cut, and with care and good navigation come out on the East side.

Daytrippers on Catamarans, frequent the cut and go to the East side to anchor at Cayo Raton and Cayo Catalinita.

The anchorage at the north east corner of the island (to the north of the anchor sign on the chart) at Punta Catuan is excellent. In the lee of the channel between the mainland and the island one is protected from the wind by the island and from the swell by the channel. There is ample depth with twelve feet within two hundred yards of the small sandy beach.

Another anchorage is about 1 mile north and west at Las Palmillas (NOT Punta Palmillas). Most times you will see local boats anchored there in 7 to 10’ of water. To access the anchorage, go west, before turning north and east to the anchorage. You will thus leave the sand bar a wide berth.

Apart from the small beach at the anchorage there is a larger one on the mainland to the north called Playa Palmillas, a popular picnic spot for local yacht owners. Also further around the island to the southeast are numerous other beaches all backed by palm trees and providing some of the finest, whitest sand in the Caribbean. The water is crystal clear and the snorkeling excellent.

It is worth setting aside a full day to explore the channel between the island and the mainland which has a depth of no less than five feet all the way to the eastern end where it shoals. There is at the east end reefs all the way across between the land masses.

The edges are lined with mangroves so it is best to press on to the eastern end to enjoy the exploration of the island Catalinita within sight of two wrecks lying dormant on the reef. There is a small beach on the island worthy of a picnic and many natural delights to behold.

On the way back there is an opening in the mangroves at the northwest corner just before Punta Palmillas which opens up into a natural lagoon. It is well protected from wind and waves. Locally it has been dubbed ‘The natural swimming pool’.

Navigational Note:
Off the south coast of Saona, traveling eastward, there is a significant navigational hazard at 18°05.54N 8°39.66 clearly marked and named on the chart, ‘Bajos Del Caballo’. Breaking water over exposed rocks can be easily seen.

The NW corner of Isla Saona is a wonderful anchorage. Swim, relax, and purchase some fresh fish from the local fisherman. This is cruising like it used to be, uncrowded and intriguing.

Bayahibe

admin — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 20:41:15 +0000

18° 21.96N 68°51.13W
4.3 nm from Casa de Campo

There are two bays available to anchor in, although the one to the north-east is crowded out with tripper boats and dominated by a coral reef. The other has many mooring buoys in constant use but places can be found amid them. In the lee of the headland moderate protection is given from the prevailing wind but there is often a small
swell

Originally a small fishing port this quaint quiet village has adapted well to its new role as a departure point for Eco Tourists taking the ten mile trip to Saona Island.

Fortunately the hubbub of activity occurs in the morning between nine and eleven and in the afternoon between three and six. Outside these times the village returns to it’s tranquil state offering the visitor a delightful place to explore.

However, at the height of the day, there are more Tourist Buses in Bayahibe than you will find in Grand Central Station, NYC. The town is alive with activity and has much to offer in the way of restaurants. As a provisioning stop it does NOT make the grade.

Apart from the many gift shops there are a variety of cafes, bars and restaurants along the waterfront and for local food there are many tucked away in the backstreets for those who have a sense of adventure. There is a timeless air about this place which can be best appreciated while watching the local boats bobbing up and down in the bay waiting for your dinner to be served, as the sun drops below the horizon.

You cannot clear immigration at Bayahibe but you may well want to make an acquaintance with the officials as soon as you can. At all times it saves any suspicion and is accepted as a friendly gesture. They will then direct you to La Romana for clearing immigration and customs.

To the far northeast is the beach of the Wyndham Resorts Hotel which is strictly private, but just before the beginning of village on the west side is the public beach where many families picnic for the day. At the beginning of this beach is the light brown building of the Marina de Guerra (Commandancia).

The fuel dock is at the southwestern end of Bayahibe. Caution must be taken as the depth shoals from six feet in the bay to four feet at the dock. There is very little water available although you may purchase five gallon bottles of purified drinking water at the Calmado.

Cumayasa River

Casa de Campo

admin — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 20:04:14 +0000

Casa de Campo Marina Complex

18° 23.47N 68°54.15W
2.13 nm from Catalina Island

The entrance to the marina is to the west of Rio Chavon behind the small peninsular Punta Minas and is clearly marked with buoys. Offshore the marina can be contacted on VHF channel 16 or their working channel 68.

This is a story book facility where no detail has been overlooked.

For those that want to pamper themselves and take a “cruising break”, this is the recipe for it. You can enjoy the marina with its “Portofino, Italy” presence. And also visit, Altos de Chavon on the property to get a sense of Medieval Europe. A day at Altos de Chavon with its charm and cobbled streets as well as spectacular views cannot be beat.

You may not see the entrance on your chart, as many charts do not display it. Use the coordinates above to find it. Once you have it in sight, you can call the marina. They respond to Spanish, English, French and Italian. Buoyage is good with depths of 11 to 15 feet throughout the marina, pilot dinghies are sent to assist docking. There is an occasional slight swell with a tidal range of just 6 inches.Moor stern to against static concrete quays with greenwood pilings. Water is at each dock with 110v and 220v electricity always available. Security is 24hrs with security cameras. W.I.F.I. internet (expensive at the dock, free in areas upland), restaurants, cafes, pharmacy and boatyard facilities are also available.

Casa De Campo marina has every amenity the traveling yachtsman may need. Linked to the resort of Casa de Campo which has golf, tennis, polo etc, the marina is situated six miles within the gated resort and eight miles from the town of La Romana. Restaurants and cafes are many and varied and should you want some luxury there
is a splendid hotel within the resort.

And whatever you do, if you dock in this marina, DO NOT FORGET TO VISIT ALTOS DE CHAVON. It will be a day filled with wonderful memories and great views.

Rio Dulce (La Romana)

admin — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 19:47:44 +0000

18° 24.19N 68°57.25W
4.6 nm from Catalina Island

This river gives easy access to the town of La Romana. The locals call it ‘Casa y Pesca’ which translated means ‘Hunt and fish Marina’ although there is no marina or dock for visitors.

As a result, it is NOT EASY to find a place to “park” your boat in this harbor. Even anchoring is difficult, as you must do it close to the bridge in very tight space. I would NOT leave my boat unattended here.

The good news is that this IS an excellent provisioning stop. The Jumbo Supermarket, and many other stores and services.

The river is busy with tripper boats in the early morning and on their return in the afternoon. You may anchor in the middle of the river just short of the bridge. The travel lift and marina facility on the east side is owned by the sugarcane company and is for their use only. A tripper boat, the ‘Fiesta Mar’, docks on the west side in the evening and one may negotiate to lie alongside. Be prepared to untie from your adopted mother ship first thing in the morning.

The town of La Romana and supermarket ‘Jumbo’ is within walking distance to the east. This large supermarket is well stocked and provides a large variety of local and imported produce. Six blocks up from the front entrance of Jumbo is the main park of La Romana with a bandstand and metal sculptures built by local craftsmen; well worth a look. Behind the park is a magnificent church.

Should you need assistance with anything the locals are all too pleased to help. Take your leather shoes to be cleaned from the shoeshine boys around the park. They do a magnificent job and are masters of their craft, all for a small charge.

Above the bridge, on the west bank, two docks up, is a facility called, Puerto Marina. It is an excellent small restaurant that serves Dominican food and Italian Food. The owner, who is Italian, is Ugo Vezzola. He has indicated that if you anchor below the bridge, and come up to his dock, he would be happy to help you in any way possible, including helping to bring your groceries back from the Supermarket. Perhaps you will do that, and have lunch afterwards at his restaurant, from where you can see both your dingy as well as your boat.

Onshore Information:
You can get just about anything you may need in this vibrant town. The marker for your navigation around town is the ‘Jumbo’ supermarket.
Continuing up hill all roads lead to the main road out of town going west towards the capital Santo Domingo.

Marine electrical services:

Manual Electric Service.
No 13 Altagracia.
Tel: 809 556 2757 Esp/Eng

Go directly uphill from Jumbo turn right on Altagracia. A block from the dead end is Manual Electric Service who has a small chandlery and can supply all your marine electrical needs. Ask for Manual who speaks poor English but understands marine electrics’ and can probably sort out any problems you may have. He has two shops. Find him either in La Romana or Andres, Boca Chica.

Internet and telephones:

Cybernet Café
Calle Eugenio # 13
(NW corner of the park)
Tel: 809 813 5514 Esp/Eng

For general information and a friendly greeting call on ‘big man’ Francisco Sanchez at the Cybernet internet café, which has the fastest machines in town and also telephones all at very affordable rates. The centre is at the northwest corner of the park, to the right of the Internet café is the café ‘La Trigadora’ a mecca for visiting yachtsmen.

Taxis:

Santa Rosa Taxis:
Calle Duarte # 18
Tel: 809 556 5313

On the south-east corner of the park is this friendly taxi company with all the major routes listed outside on a board, all routes quite reasonably priced. Next door is a clean spacious local café serving excellent Dominican coffee.

Outboard motor supply and repair:

GR Outboard Centre.
Calle Fray Juan De Utreras #15
Tel: 809 720 2530 Esp

Straight up from the park by one block, towards the right, is this repair and supply store for all your outboard needs, they also stock a variety of other marine supplies; ask for Francisco Gurerro.

Hardware supplies:

Detallista
Top of Calle Pedro A. Lluberes
Tel: 809 556 4666 Esp

Continuing a half mile uphill from the park and up to the main road just west of the roundabout you will find the largest hardware store in town, with a very good variety of hardware items and tools.

Engine supplies ( inc filters.)

Respuestos RAP
Tel: 809 556 5767 Esp

About three blocks west is ‘Respuestos Rap’ truck store where you can find fuel and oil filters and many other mechanical parts.

Alternators:

Electro Auto Abuelo
Av Pedro Abreu # 16
Tel: 809 813 1396 Esp

Six more blocks west on the left, this business will test and repair alternators, starter motors etc.

Marine engineering and electrical:

R & R Marine
bowens@navierasbr.com
Tel: 809 562 1661 or 7110
Fax: 809 567 7992
Cell: 809 754 1211

Bill Owens, an American, will certainly be able to help you solve engineering and electrical problems; he also has a propeller service and supply business.

Catalina Island

admin — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 19:31:59 +0000

18° 22.16N 69°01.40W
3.4nm from the entrance to the Cumayasa River.

The island of Catalina can provide a small anchorage giving protection from the North through to the Southeast.

There is 10 feet of water close in to the beach with a sandy bottom. This is a cruise ship stop and if you like mingling with cruise ship tourists, the beach looks like Times Square, NY on New Years Eve anytime a cruise ship is in. You will not feel lonely here. However the anchorage tends to be rolly. VERY ROLLY. And as a result, I have never found it comfortable as anything more than a day stop.

Cumayasa River

admin — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 19:27:07 +0000

RIO CUMAYASA—————–A TRIP BACK IN TIME.

RIVER ENTRANCE:

18° 22.97N 69°04.91W
13.0 nm from San Pedro de Macoris

The entrance to the Cumayasa river is a ¼ mile across but blends into the shoreline so look for the cement-block house on the west side and the large red and orange colored buildings of the Reina hotel set back on the east side marking the entry point.

There is 25 to 30 feet of water at the entrance with no bar or breaking water although one is advised to favor the port side going up the river to avoid submerged debris and shallows to starboard. The depth is 7 to 11 feet in the river for a further 1.5 miles. (In the shoal areas it can be as low as 5 to 6’)

On the portside of the river, some quarter of a mile up, is the Marina de Guerra post, which you may visit to announce your arrival. They always appreciate the fact that you have announced yourself, as many times they have to find a fisherman and his boat to come out to your vessel. Next on the same side is the center of the village of Cumayasa predominated by the catamarans and boats being worked on at the small yard. This facility does fiberglass repairs. There is no dock; only dinghy access to a rough slipway. The main Santo Domingo / La Romana road is four kilometers away with local transport available.

Onshore Information:
For all the local information go to the only Colmado (General Store) in this small community. Find Juana and if someone to help you isn’t immediately available she will telephone them for you.

Continue up the river for 1.5 miles to find a developing facility on the starboard side, a low dock with up to twenty stern-to moorings. There is water from storage tanks but no drinking water or electricity. The price to stay is inexpensive and includes a security guard at night. You may also access the main road from here.

This is a very interesting river to visit and provides great protection from the elements. In the past it has been used as a ‘Hurricane Hole’. The locals are always pleased to help and a friendly welcome can be expected. Traveling up this river is like going back in time. Take your time and enjoy it ‘the way it was fifty years ago’.

San Pedro de Macoris

admin — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 19:18:05 +0000

‘The only tenable anchorage at San Pedro de Macoris’ Don’t breathe too deeply!

18° 25.00N 69°18.46W
17.5 nm from Port of Andres (Boca Chica)

Navigational Note: As you approach (going east) to the west of San Pedro de Macoris at 18° 25’N 69°19’W beware of the mooring buoys for ships waiting to go into the port, they present a sizable hazard especially at night. (18° 25’N 69°19’W’)

Entry into the river is well marked with buoys which need to be followed since there is a semi intact breakwater to the east side of entry and shallows along the east shore together with underwater debris. The mud bottom is churned up by the sugar refineries upstream and also a floating power plant to the port side of the entry.

This industrialization has led to muddy water, poor air quality and a bad smell. You may however choose to anchor 200 yards short of the bridge on the eastside of the river but we do not suggest this harbor for cruising sailors, it literally STINKS!

Port of Andres (Boca Chica)

admin — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 22:05:32 +0000

MERENGUE IN BOCA CHICA

18°25.50N 69°36.67W
18.0 nm from Santo Domingo

The port of Boca Chica is clearly defined by its ‘giraffe like’ loading cranes which are easily visible on the coastline. If you like you can call Marina Zarpar on VHF channel 5. The staff will assist your arrival and will often send out a pilot boat to guide you in. Follow the red and green marker buoys into the channel and pass the entrance to the commercial area on the port side. Continue to starboard into the area behind La Piedra Island where shelter is assured due to the island and a continuous reef. Pass ‘Club Nautico’, a private yacht club, to your portside and continue on to Marina Zar Par (marinazarpar.com).

‘Marina Zarpar’

This is a new, fully equipped, marina with most every facility and service available. This includes electricity, water, Free internet and WiFi , laundry, hot water showers, etc. There are slips for boats up to 100’ and also excellent moorings which allow the user the full use of the marina facilities. Currently one can anchor behind the
island of La Piedra (just south of the Yacht Club), or pick up a mooring at Marina ZarPar. Anchoring is not permitted east of the marina in front of the beach, or in front of the marina in the channel.

The restaurant at the marina serves a variety of local dishes priced inexpensively. Orders to go can also be arranged.

The yacht club, Club Nautico has a travel lift for haul out and also sells gasoline and diesel.

With the international airport just seven miles away and Santo Domingo just twelve, you will find this a convenient stop for maintenance projects and perhaps a long term stay. Security is excellent. Immigration authorities are conveniently located in the marina.

The harbor is situated adjacent to the town of Andreas to the west and Boca Chica to the east. Both towns have banks, pharmacies and food stores. Boca Chica is more geared to the tourist and Andreas more geared to local Dominican life.

Onshore Information:
The oldest and best stocked yacht chandlery is situated just half a block to the west from the marina. They speak Engish and will help you find what you need and if it isn’t in stock they will order it in for you.

Centro Marino
Av. Andres #3
Tel: 809 523 6033
Email: centro.marino@hotmail.com

Manuel Electric
(Opposite entrance to Club Nautico to the west).
Tel: 809 523 9769

Boca Chica is the nighttime party capital of the south coast. During the day walk down Calle Duarte, the main street through town. This takes you from the park at one end to the Hamaca hotel at the other. The road is lined with, gift shops, cafes, restaurants and much more.

Banco Popular and ATM machines can be found at the southwest corner of the park. On the southeast corner is a small supermarket stocked with canned and packaged foods. Half a block from the park going east (enter the small mall) is a fine Italian delicatessen named ‘Punto Italia’. Ask for Roberto and he will serve you fresh Italian bread and a wide variety of imported Italian foodstuffs.

Four blocks onward going east is ‘Restaurant Francais’ where bread is baked six days a week except uesdays, (best at about 12 to one pm). The food and service is excellent. They serve large hamburgers and great French fries. One special dish for the hearty appetite is ‘Pautine’ which is French fries mixed with cheese together with either a bbq sauce or a bolonaise sauce. The toilets are large and clean and actually belong to the Isla Bonita Hotel. Walk through the hotel to access the beach.

Going west from the park by ten blocks or so is the main vehicle entrance to the beach. You will also notice a dirt road which is a pleasant three quarter mile walk between Andres and Boca Chica, alongside the beach. (Walk it during the Day). The Andres end of the track is at the entrance to the marina.