Dominican Republic Cruising Guide » East Coast

THREE COASTS–THREE PERSONALITIES

Frank Virgintino — Thu, 21 Jan 2010 20:09:36 +0000

The DR has three coasts. North Coast, East Coast and South Coast.

NORTH COAST

The North Coast has wonderful harbors on the western end (Monticristi and Manzanillo). However, from Luperon going East, the north coast is an extremely difficult coast. The waters of the Atlantic are rough and when the trade winds are blowing or a “norther” comes down from the United States, the North Coast is beyond difficult; it can be outright dangerous. There really is no place to stop east of Luperon that is safe and when the wind is from the NE or from the E with seas from the NE, the entirety of the North Coast is not tenable. You will find yourself riding big seas on a windbound coast. To transit the north coast one needs to be an experienced sailor. If you rely on your motor, it must be in good condition and your tank and filters clean. Spare filters should be kept handy and all other precautions should be taken. And one must understand weather beyond casually. You must understand the interaction of a “norther” coming down from the States and the Katabatic winds that come off shore at night. The biggest cape that you will pass on this transit is Cape “Frances Viejo”. It means in English, Cape old Frenchman. He probably got old trying to pass the cape as it seems to take forever to do so.

The key to the north shore, is prepare, prepare and prepare or avoid the coast entirely.

EAST COAST

BE VERY CAREFUL ON THIS COAST!

The East Coast has one grand and beautiful harbor at the NE end. It is the Bay of Samana. In the bay is the wonderful town of Santa Barbara and the incredible national park, Los Haitises. There are also many other anchorages and quaint towns up bay and in addition at the entrance of the bay is Cayo Levantado; a wonderful day anchorage for swimming, fresh fish, wonderful beach etc.

The Bay of Samana lies between Cabo Cabron and Cabo Engano. Translated it means essentially Cape Lie and Cape Cheat. I have no question as to how these capes got their names. They are difficult and hard to predict and both have bad reputations. Going south from Samana, whether you go due south or southeast to Puerto Rico, it requires careful planning. The east coast of the Dominican Republic and the Mona Passage, can be violent and dangerous. It is not a place for novice sailors. It is a haunting coast of shifting sandbars and unpredictable currents. Where winds change direction as they bounce off the capes and can accelerate to double their velocity. The marinas on the East Coast, Punta Cana and CapCana have narrow shallow entrances that are difficult in settled weather and impossible if a sea is running from the NE or east. The small anchorage Punta Macao is anything but an anchorage. It is a niche in the beach and to use it the weather has to be very settled and preferably from the SE, which is rare early in the season.

SOUTH COAST

Nothing in life is perfect, but the south coast of the DR is as good as it gets. First you are in the lee of the big island of Hispaniola. The western part of the south coast is further sheltered by the extensive cape at Beata.

The Caribbean sea is more “user friendly” than the Atlantic Ocean. At the west end of the south coast there is Bahia Las Aguillas; absolutely stunning. The Island Isla Beata is easy to anchor behind, out of the trade winds, and is as close to idyllic as it gets. Going east from Isla Beata is what amounts to be a large bay. On the west side is the town of Barahona which is close to Largo Enriquillo (the only sub sea level lake in the Caribbean. A national park with live crocodiles and very unexplored). The east side of the “bay” hosts Palmar de Ocoa and Las Salinas; both beautiful and excellent stops. From Las Salinas there is a nice day stop along the way called Punta Palenque and from there only a short distance to Boca Chica. Boca Chica is a wonderful Dominican Tourist town and it is very close both to the International Airport (Las Americas) and the capital of Santo Domingo which is well worth seeing and in particular the “old city”.

After Boca Chica is the Rio Cumayasa, as well as Isla Catalina, Casa de Campo and Isla Saona; each different and each interesting depending on your taste and desires.

While one must always be alert at sea, the South Coast of the DR is truly user friendly and I believe you will agree that you will find a plethora of cruising opportunities along its shores.

A CRUISING GUIDE TO:THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC by Frank Virgintino

admin — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:53:36 +0000

This Guide is the result of a six week circumnavigation of the island of Hispaniola, making numerous stops as well as subsequent trips to make updates and add information.

The Ports and Harbors section of the guide is broken down between the South Coast, East Coast and North Coast with listings of individual locations as follows:

Cayo Laventado

admin — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 20:05:31 +0000

CAYO LEVANTADO-BAY OF SAMANA

At the mouth of Samana Bay (north side) is the island of Lavantado which is a favorite visiting stop for cruise ships and has all the ingredients of an exotic Caribbean island.

Bleached white sandy beaches, lush green grass and palm tree shade are all here. There are three jetties suitable for a dinghy the most easterly is private to the hotel Gran Bahia but you may use either of the other two which are in constant use by tourist boats. In order to cater for cruise ship guests there are plenty of gift shops and a round tropical cocktail bar on the beach. There are two restaurants open to the general public. One is a large covered area serving lobster and fish in cafeteria style and the other is ‘Ballena Blanca’ on the beach. Here you may sample truly traditional Dominican cuisine. All washed down with the local Presidente beer. Unfortunately they both close by four pm, although if you talk to the proprietor at the Belena he will willingly stay open
later.

19°09.92N 69°16.67W

12.2 nm from Los Haitis (Bahia de San Lorenzo)

The most eastern half of the island is dominated by the Gran Bahia hotel whose restaurant is solely available to guests. However, at the western end of the island, you can find many facilties that will happily sell you a fresh fish lunch or for that matter, virtually any lunch you may desire. However, the fresh fish, lobster and other local catches, is the right choice for lunch.

While you may anchor during the day in the lee of the island off the sandy beach you are required to up anchor by late afternoon. This is due to Coast Guard (Marina Guerra) requirements. Illegal emigration to Puerto Rico from the DR is of concern, and any boat anchored out at the island at night is suspect. As the sun goes down, you can return to Santa Barbara, just a few miles westward to anchor for the night.

Bahia de San Lorenzo (Los Haitises National Park)

admin — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 19:39:23 +0000

Los Haitises National Park, LOWER BAY—SOUTH SIDE
19°.05.79N 69°29.19W
9.5 nm from Rio Yuna

(Although the name includes the word Haiti there is no association with the country)

“THIS IS A “DO NOT MISS ANCHORAGE”

The park is in the southwest corner of Samana Bay and the administration office is tucked amid the rocks to the left of some abandoned pier pilings within Bahia de San Lorenzo, although the building is seldom manned. As of this writing, you may stay in the park for two days for 100 pesos per person per day.

The park is administered by staff from the Environmental Agency (medio ambiente). They will approach your boat in a launch. Invite the commander and his assistant to board your boat. Pay the fee, ask any questions you may have, and remember a small gift or small tip is always appreciated. However you choose to thank them, your stay in this park will be priceless. (Officially they may tell you that you need a permit obtained in advance to anchor. However, in all likelihood you will be permitted to stay. I still do not know exactly how or where one obtains the permit).

If you traveled along the northern coast of Samana Bay at all,you may be better prepared for your initial view of this scenery, since your senses of awe will be overwhelmed. It is in every sense breathtaking and there are insufficient superlatives to do it justice. If an artist were to visit they would delight in the natural light. The hills, covered with dense deep green vegetation, rise majestically skyward. Back behind them are misty blue/green mountains. Once the initial shock has dissipated one can relax into thoughts of creation and indeed Mother Nature herself, for this is truly a work of art on her part.

Allow yourself plenty of time to explore since there is so much to see. The edges of the rocks hover six inches above the water due to erosion over centuries as if to remind you of their age. All around are birds; their lifestyle unchanged for generations and one can imagine pterodactyls soaring above. Time stands still here. One of the markers of time is the drawings inside the limestone caves. At approximately 19°04.82N 69°28.06W, (to the west of the abandoned pier pilings) find the entrance to a creek leading to the caves. The water shallows to two feet with mangroves to one side so beware puncturing your inflatable.

Paddle your craft to the end of the creek and capture the tranquility of the mangrove swamp as you walk along the path to the caves. Once inside there are information posters. In the caves one can clearly see ancient markings and flash photography is allowed. Savor the damp tranquil atmosphere previously shared by Native Americans, many generations ago.

Capture the fresh smell of the salt air and vegetation, breathe deep the clean air. In the early morning watch the sun burn off the mist and listen to virtually nothing apart from the occasional bird or the splash of a fish. This is a truly remarkable anchorage. Most often you will be alone or perhaps with one other boat. This anchorage rates with the best in the Caribbean, if not the world. No description can do it justice……go see for yourself!

Rio Yuna

admin — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 19:27:51 +0000

“TOP” (west end) of SAMANA BAY

19°11.61N 69°37.19W
2.0 nm from Sanchez

Moving west there is a delta of four rivers which feed Samana bay, Rio Yuna, Bochiquita, Cano and Colorado. The largest Rio Yuma shallows to two feet at the mouth with a partially submerged motorboat a little way into the river. Despite the river being less than two feet deep during dry spells it invites the adventurous to ‘Gunk Hole’, a rare and unusual opportunity for the cruising yachtsman these days.

If you are not a fan of isolation and natural beauty, as this area exemplifies, then this is not the place for you. With a backdrop of misty mountains in the near distance this is truly virgin territory. You can anchor anywhere here in 10′ of water; however, do not be surprised if you are the only boat around. This area is not very frequented by cruising yachtsmen who are in a rush to leave Samana and “make their” easting to the “Caribbean Islands”.

Sanchez

admin — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 19:20:01 +0000

“El Spigon” at Sanchez

19°13.12N 69°36.82W
18.0 miles from Santa Babara

History

The old town of Las Cañitas was elevated to the category of municipality in 1866 with the name of Francisco del Rosario Sánchez, one of the three Founding Fathers of the Dominican Republic.

It was a very small town but it grew in importance and population when the railway from town to La Vega (in the La Vega province) began to run across the rich region of the Cibao. Sánchez became the most important port of the country during the rest of the 19th century and beginning of the 20th century. The railway worked until 1966.^[3]

The port has lost its importance because When other ports in the country grew in importance, Sánchez lost its importance as a port. And the Yuna River has been filling the Samana Bay with solid material and only small boats can get to the port.

The URL link to YOUTUBE, is a good indication of the local flavor of the town.

In the town of Sanchez, Samana

At the uppermost northwest corner of Samana bay is Sanchez a commercial port which is conveniently tucked out of sight behind the fishing village also named Sanchez which is the preferred anchorage. Since the jetty has fallen into disrepair a better place for your dinghy is beached with the colorful fishing boats on the sandy beach immediately to starboard.

Here you will receive a warm welcome from the local fishing folk and the many children who play in the sand. Behind the fishing boats fishermen repair their nets, where there is also a small café.

There is a kitchen where the womenfolk cook the fresh fish, crabs and crawfish which the children have helped to clean. Although this is not a restaurant they are more than willing to sell you some of this freshly cooked fare.

Punta Del Botado

admin — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 19:13:04 +0000

PIER AT PUNTA DEL BOTADO

19°11.69N 69°26.93W
6.2 nm from Bahia Escondida

Punta Del Botado has a red marker buoy 200 feet off the end of a long concrete pier.

This is a landing dock for cargo ships and has forty feet of water all around making anchoring difficult.

Essentially a small local stop, set up for small cargo ships. Not a recommended area to anchor.

Bahia Escondida (Hidden Bay)

admin — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 18:58:35 +0000

Marina at Bahia Escondida

Going westward along the north shoreline of Samana Bay, the first of many anchorages, is a small bay tucked behind and to the west of the long raised causeway to the island of Cayo Vigie.

Heading UP BAY—WEST
19°11.68N 69°20.32W
1.75 nm from Santa Babara

One mile onward is PUERTO BAHIA, the site of private residences and a new marina facility (shown above). 19.11.613 N 69.21.392 W. This facility can serve as an alternative to anchoring at Santa Barbara Samana for those who prefer a marina.

The bay has a private beach and two small hotels with access to Samana town up a step hill. Anchor in nine feet of water over a muddy bottom with some protection from the trade winds.

Anchorages:

All along this coastline are numerous anchorages which all have their own sandy beaches with a backdrop of coconut trees and luscious green hills. Feel free to call anyone of them your own as it is unlikely that you will have much company, if any. You will find yourself sailing from one anchorage you describe as the perfect place, to another which seems to surpass all others. It is impossible to put them in any order of merit as they are all quintessential Caribbean anchorages.

Santa Barbara (de Samana)

admin — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 18:49:22 +0000

HARBOR AT SANTA BARBARA DE SAMANA

19°11.44N 68°18.96W
56.0 nm from Punta Cana

Once inside the Bay of Samana the first port available to the cruising yachtsman on the north coast of the bay is Santa Barbara de la Samana. (Yachtsmen normally refer to the town as “Samana”)

Enter along the north coast following a marked channel to the north of Cayo Levantado. Since the anchorage is a few miles into the bay and bordered by islands there is reasonable protection from the sea. There is seventeen feet of water to anchor in with good holding in a muddy bottom.

You may clear customs and immigration at Santa Barbara, if this is your first port of call in the Dominican Republic. Clearing in is not difficult, but not exactly straightforward. Santa Barbara shares the same problem as Luperon with regard to being “inventive” for charges for visiting yachtsmen. Immigration, Coast Guard (marina guerra), Dept. of Drugs, M-2 (intelligence) and Dept. of Ports. You will find them all waiting on line to charge you something.

Review the charges listed at this site, before you go in to clear. Then make your decision as to whether you want to pay any and all charges demanded of you and clear in quickly, or whether you want to “review” each and every charge and argue the point on those that seem incorrect and clear in slowly.

After you have cleared in, you may choose to take a long walk along the causeway that borders the southern side of the harbor. It leads out to a beautiful view of the eastern portion of the bay facing Cayo Levantado. At the end of the walkway (known locally as the ‘Bridge to nowhere’, is Cayo Vigie.

SANTA BARBARA DE SAMANA

‘Anchorage at Santa Barbara de Samana’

BRIDGE TO NOWHERE in the backround
During the day the town dock is a hive of activity especially during the ‘whale watching’ season with many boats available for guided excursions. This dock also serves as a dinghy dock. At the quay, across the street is a bank with ATM machines and one block behind this is an excellent internet café and a laundry. It is well worth walking or riding into town along the waterfront to the ‘rotonda’ (roundabout). This is the centre of town with all the color and hubbub of a waterfront Dominican town. Also there is the Dominican version of the rickshaw which consists of a motorcycle attached to a covered passenger wagon, perfect for moving provisions. The fare per person is a dollar or less anywhere around town.

‘Getting around in the town’

Santa Barbara de Samana
A wide variety of provisions can be obtained at the supermarket and a truly vibrant vegetable and fruit open-air market is across the street from the supermarket. All kinds of local fruits and vegetables are on display as well as meats and fish. The vendors are highly animated and eager to do business with you. The prices in relationship to the United States or Canada are a real bargain. An entire stem of bananas (approx. 50) can be purchased for less than $7 US. Tangerines, oranges, lettuce, tomatoes, plantains, mangos, papaya and many others follow suit. Santa Barbara has good facilities for the cruising yachtsman and a great place to recuperate from the rigors of the sea. Apart from the many sights and sounds of this truly Dominican town there is access to the breathtaking waterfalls at El Limon twenty-four miles inland.

ATM machines are available at the bank immediately opposite the main jetty.

Whales

December through to March they are easy to find and easy to see as you approach Samana Bay. Stop your engine or drop your sails and lay hove to.

Most often you will see the water spouts at a distance. Once you have spotted your first one, you will spot theirs, so long as you are not in a hurry. The entrance to the Bay of Samana teems with life of all kinds, from whales to fish and seabirds. Anchored for the day behind Cayo Levantado, you will see local fisherman in small boats catching fish with nets in the same fashion as has been done for millennium. You will also see Pelicans (looking like small pterodactyls) diving into the water for their food, over and over again. With the mountains and the sky as a backdrop, there is so much color and so much to see that it is easy to lose three or four hours just being a spectator.

Most sailors look for a “tail wind” when sailing. This is just the “tail end” of the what’s under the water. The first time I saw this coming into the Bay of Samana, and saw a whale sounding, I was overcome with the grandeur of it all.

If you see a “spout” from a distance, keep your distance, and shut off your motor. The show is free and has no equal. If you feel inspired you can holler out “THAR SHE BLOWS”.

In all the years that I have visited various harbors in the DR, I have always found Santa Barbara ( Samana) to be very special. There is a sense of excitement about this town. Perhaps it is the waterfront. Or the restaurants. I know that the open air Fruit and Vegetable market at the west end of town always gets my blood running. There you not only will buy, but for sure you will overbuy. Everything is so good, and so relatively inexpensive.

Punta Cana Marina

admin — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 15:43:39 +0000

Punta Cana marina is positioned with little natural protection from the weather or the sea. Breaking water clearly identifies the gap in the reef through which one must pass through to enter the marina. The controlling depth is, at best, 6′. With any sea running, YOU WILL TOUCH BOTTOM, going in.

Inside the marina is NOT protected from any surge, and you will end up securing your boat, like a wild stallion in a corral. This marina is not for the cruising sailor.

The channel leading into this small marina is marked with an outer green buoy which marks the beginning of red and green channel markers. The depth is five feet minimum although the marina itself carries seven feet at low tide throughout, with a tidal range of about one and a half feet.

There is a fuel dock with a one foot thick concrete edge one foot above water at high tide. You may lie alongside. All other berths are stern-to with plastic covered pilings. There is little or no protection from the swell. Unless one can stay head to swell, expect plenty of motion. The bottom is sand.

There is water and electricity available with shopping a twenty minute taxi ride away. The marina has an excellent restaurant serving a wide variety of cuisine from an international menu in a very comfortable setting.

Stopping at Punta Cana marina is not recommended. The surge in the marina is usually strong resulting in consistent movement. Unlike its neighbor, Cap Cana, the interior of the marina is not well sheltered. With the added difficulties of the entrance channel, it would be difficult to find a compelling reason to choose this stop.

Navigation Note:
The coastline between Punta Cana and Samana Bay is a lee shore with many reefs. One is best to lay off with a good safety margin. Also keep in mind that winds and waves buffet the shoreline relentlessly. This IS the Mona Passage!