Dominican Republic Cruising Guide » North Coast

THREE COASTS–THREE PERSONALITIES

Frank Virgintino — Thu, 21 Jan 2010 20:09:36 +0000

The DR has three coasts. North Coast, East Coast and South Coast.

NORTH COAST

The North Coast has wonderful harbors on the western end (Monticristi and Manzanillo). However, from Luperon going East, the north coast is an extremely difficult coast. The waters of the Atlantic are rough and when the trade winds are blowing or a “norther” comes down from the United States, the North Coast is beyond difficult; it can be outright dangerous. There really is no place to stop east of Luperon that is safe and when the wind is from the NE or from the E with seas from the NE, the entirety of the North Coast is not tenable. You will find yourself riding big seas on a windbound coast. To transit the north coast one needs to be an experienced sailor. If you rely on your motor, it must be in good condition and your tank and filters clean. Spare filters should be kept handy and all other precautions should be taken. And one must understand weather beyond casually. You must understand the interaction of a “norther” coming down from the States and the Katabatic winds that come off shore at night. The biggest cape that you will pass on this transit is Cape “Frances Viejo”. It means in English, Cape old Frenchman. He probably got old trying to pass the cape as it seems to take forever to do so.

The key to the north shore, is prepare, prepare and prepare or avoid the coast entirely.

EAST COAST

BE VERY CAREFUL ON THIS COAST!

The East Coast has one grand and beautiful harbor at the NE end. It is the Bay of Samana. In the bay is the wonderful town of Santa Barbara and the incredible national park, Los Haitises. There are also many other anchorages and quaint towns up bay and in addition at the entrance of the bay is Cayo Levantado; a wonderful day anchorage for swimming, fresh fish, wonderful beach etc.

The Bay of Samana lies between Cabo Cabron and Cabo Engano. Translated it means essentially Cape Lie and Cape Cheat. I have no question as to how these capes got their names. They are difficult and hard to predict and both have bad reputations. Going south from Samana, whether you go due south or southeast to Puerto Rico, it requires careful planning. The east coast of the Dominican Republic and the Mona Passage, can be violent and dangerous. It is not a place for novice sailors. It is a haunting coast of shifting sandbars and unpredictable currents. Where winds change direction as they bounce off the capes and can accelerate to double their velocity. The marinas on the East Coast, Punta Cana and CapCana have narrow shallow entrances that are difficult in settled weather and impossible if a sea is running from the NE or east. The small anchorage Punta Macao is anything but an anchorage. It is a niche in the beach and to use it the weather has to be very settled and preferably from the SE, which is rare early in the season.

SOUTH COAST

Nothing in life is perfect, but the south coast of the DR is as good as it gets. First you are in the lee of the big island of Hispaniola. The western part of the south coast is further sheltered by the extensive cape at Beata.

The Caribbean sea is more “user friendly” than the Atlantic Ocean. At the west end of the south coast there is Bahia Las Aguillas; absolutely stunning. The Island Isla Beata is easy to anchor behind, out of the trade winds, and is as close to idyllic as it gets. Going east from Isla Beata is what amounts to be a large bay. On the west side is the town of Barahona which is close to Largo Enriquillo (the only sub sea level lake in the Caribbean. A national park with live crocodiles and very unexplored). The east side of the “bay” hosts Palmar de Ocoa and Las Salinas; both beautiful and excellent stops. From Las Salinas there is a nice day stop along the way called Punta Palenque and from there only a short distance to Boca Chica. Boca Chica is a wonderful Dominican Tourist town and it is very close both to the International Airport (Las Americas) and the capital of Santo Domingo which is well worth seeing and in particular the “old city”.

After Boca Chica is the Rio Cumayasa, as well as Isla Catalina, Casa de Campo and Isla Saona; each different and each interesting depending on your taste and desires.

While one must always be alert at sea, the South Coast of the DR is truly user friendly and I believe you will agree that you will find a plethora of cruising opportunities along its shores.

A CRUISING GUIDE TO:THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC by Frank Virgintino

admin — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:53:36 +0000

This Guide is the result of a six week circumnavigation of the island of Hispaniola, making numerous stops as well as subsequent trips to make updates and add information.

The Ports and Harbors section of the guide is broken down between the South Coast, East Coast and North Coast with listings of individual locations as follows:

Manzanillo Bay

admin — Thu, 08 Oct 2009 03:45:32 +0000

COMMERCIAL WHARF—-MANZANILLO BAY

The shoreline of this large bay has the commercial port of Manzanillo to the south. As you leave the mangroves, head SW to cross the bay. Behind a beach restaurant to the southeast of the commercial pier is a saltwater lagoon. This lagooon is called Estero Balza. Favor the eastern shoreline since a sandy shallow extends along the restaurant side; you may find ten to twelve feet to navigate through to the lagoon (depending on wind and tide). This is virtually undiscovered territory but you will have a few sailboats anchored about. There are two other cafes apart from the restaurant and a small village two miles away.

Be careful with Manzanillo Bay, once the wind gets up in the morning, and until late evening, because of the size of the bay and its fetch to the East, a chop can build. If you plan to anchor in this bay at the western end, it is best to enter the lagoon. However, if you draw more than 6′ of water, it can be tricky. In that case enter only on a fair tide, and before the wind comes up. You may find a set a stakes to guide you in. Once inside, this is an excellent hurricane hole and your vessel will be well protected.

19°46.76N 71°49.59W
17.0 nm from Montecristi

Closing Punto Manzanillo, from the East, you will see a large Canadian ferry stranded and abandoned. Give the point a wide berth and watch the depth increase to forty feet immediately after. Round up behind the point and anchor on a weedy bottom. Here you can take the dinghy to the small beach and go ‘gunk holing’ amongst the mangrove festooned inlets. You may rest easy here well protected and in total isolation. This area is part of the National Park.

ESTERO BALZA———-”The Lagoon”

Manzanillo is the last Dominican port going west or the first proceeding east. Either way it is a decent stop, albeit somewhat commercial. And it IS an official port of entry.

The town behind the bay is called Pepillo Salcedo and is a dormitory town for workers in the banana plantations and various other food industries inland. The commercial dock also provides employment. A very neat and clean town, there are two large calmados (grocery stores), a pharmacy, a hardware store and several small shops. This is not a major shopping centre but it is a good town to shop for basic foods and grocery supplies or if you want an additional jump off point to go through the Windward Passage to the Caribbean side of the island.

Heading west from Manzanillo, stand offshore a few miles from Isle de Tortue (Torture Island) and let the trade winds give you a broad reach around to the Caribbean side of Hispaniola. If the trade winds are blowing like they most often do and you like to sail, this is ‘Trade Wind Sailing’ as good as it gets! If you are heading EAST and try to get out of this bay after the Trade winds come up in the morning, you either own a huge powerboat with two very big engines, or just like to beat your brains out.

Montecristi

admin — Thu, 08 Oct 2009 03:29:51 +0000

MONTECRISTI BAY WITH “EL MORRO” in BACKGROUND

This You tube link will provide a nice view of the mangrove canal that starts east of “El Morro” and exits under the small bridge on the west side.

Montecristi and Cayos de los siete hermanos

19°55.46N 71°37.97W
41.0 nm from Luperon

The bay at Montecristi is one mile across and one mile deep and apart from a small shallow patch in the middle has 9 feet of water to anchor most anywhere. Favor the southeast corner which has dinghy access to the land; keep about a quarter of a mile off. Take your dinghy along a marked channel and under a small bridge to the
Sportfishing club and you can be assured a warm welcome.

The restaurant serves a wide range of local dishes and the prices are reasonable. From here you can taxi to the town of Montecristi which is two miles inland. Should you want to ‘clear-in’ the club will taxi in the officials. The extra you need pay is the taxi fare. Somebody with a car will take you into town for a couple of dollars, driving past the Hotel Montechico, through salt flats and into this quiet no fuss town. Many of those who live in Montecristi refer to the town as the town the Dominican Republic forgot, as by car it is quite remote.

For a week in February each year the townsfolk hold a carnival to celebrate Independence Day with just as much enthusiasm and color as Rio or New Orleans. (February 27th). Dressed in hooded robes and protective masks jousters flail each other with homemade rope whips. The whole town collects outside a large dancehall in the centre of town to view the scene. Regardless of the time of year the dancehall is a mecca for socializing, which the Dominicans are expert at.

Eat at any of the many restaurants and share a beer with the locals. Nothing happens very quickly here, modern services such as the internet are available although the equipment is due for an update. One might say the same about the town but thankfully this is unlikely to happen soon.

Take a picnic and ‘gunkhole’ the three miles of mangrove lined canal from the sports-fishing club to the glorious beach at the foot of El Morro; you may well have the place to yourself.

The bay, the river and the town are untouched and the whole area is what Caribbean cruising used to be, so enjoy this quiet gem. Well protected, clear clean water and great scenery make this a superb anchorage. This bay is one of the hidden secrets of the Dominican Republic.

Onshore Information:

Hotel Montechico
Tel: 809 579 2565

This large feature, toward the west as you enter the bay, will allow you to beach your dinghy nearby between a newly built private jetty and the hotel. There is an excellent air-conditioned restaurant available even if you do not take a room, serving from 8pm to 11pm. Also Carmen the proprietor will prepare meals to take away and put you in touch with QuiQuito who can help with emergency mechanical problems.

The staff will also telephone:

Bucan Taxi Service
Calle Raphael Perello #6
Tel: 809 579 2246

This business is in town where they also have cars and motorbikes for rent.

Once in town head for the restaurant:

Comedor Adela
Calle Juan De La Cruz Alverez #41
Tel: 809 579 2254

This is an excellent place for food and information any time of day. On entering it seems small but as you go to the back it expands into an airy courtyard housing many tables. The family, who owns and runs the restaurant, is keen to help and will prepare meals to go.

Internet
Corner of Calle Duarte and Calle Benito-Moncion

An alternative restaurant serving fine cuisine is:

Ocean bar and Restaurant
At the uphill end of Calle Duarte
Tel: 809 579 3643

CAYOS SIETE HERMANOS (National Park)

Luperon

admin — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 23:20:39 +0000

PUERTO BLANCO (LUPERON)

Once inside, at the fork of the channel, take the fork to starboard to avoid the built-up silt and low water.

19°55.33N 70°56.48W

The entrance to Luperon anchorage can be challenging since apart from one white buoy there is no marked channel. Proceed with caution preferably on a rising tide and if you do hit the soft mud bottom it should not be difficult to back off and get unstuck.

Inside this ‘Hurricane Hole’ you will find many yachts dotted about the anchorage. There are many shallows. The area seldom gets ‘flushed’ and as a result the water is muddy and brackish. This harbor is a mangrove backwater that was opened to the sea. It is possible to take a draft of 5 feet all the way to the far end of the lagoon where there is a long concrete dock. There is also a dinghy dock at the town end to starboard. There is water at the dock and fuel can be bought from a small fuel barge, which also sells water. The local officials in this harbor have a reputation for “inventing fees”.

If you like to be anchored in an area ‘bumper to bumper’ with many other cruising boats, and do not mind the foul water, this is your stop.

. There is also a dinghy dock at the town end to starboard. There is water at the dock and fuel can be bought from a small fuel barge, which also sells water. The local officials in this harbor have a reputation for “inventing fees”

Very common anchoring space inside the harbor

The town of Luperon itself is a hive of activity with many small food shops, restaurants, laundry facilities, internet cafes and a disco. A couple of blocks up from the water is ‘Steves bar and restaurant’, the haunt of many yachtsmen and a centre for information. There are plenty of activities in the area such as white water rafting and horseback riding. You can easily get to Mount Isabel and Puerto Plata town by local buses which meander through the hillsides. The journey is worth the small fare for the scenery alone.

Steves Bar

The restaurant is located straight up the road, six blocks or so from the dock, on the right. Steve, an American, will probably be busy in the kitchen as he cooks and his wife serves wonderful food with a Mexican flare, burritos being a specialty. Large orders of food can be ordered to go. At the back of the building is a swimming pool with an overhanging double hammock for your relaxation. His bar/restaurant has foosball, pool, and many tables including one long ‘conference’ table fit for a large party. Also within the airy, open sided restaurant are internet facilities. He rents out motorcycles and can offer horse riding excursions and many other activities. Steve has a wealth of information to help you sort out any problems you may have with your boat especially since he is also a yacht captain. There is an ATM another three blocks up the road from Steves and two large supermarkets, all in the vicinity of the park.

Ocean World (Puerto Plata)

admin — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 23:11:38 +0000

19°50.09N 70°43.53W
2.1 nm from Puerto Plata (Commercial port)

www.oceanworld.net

You may enter this modern marina through a gap in the reef along a clearly marked channel, the marina responds on channel 16. Once inside the breakwater there are more than 80 slips catering for craft of all sizes. Berth either side-on or stern-to against the 4 feet thick concrete quays 1.5 feet above the water at mid tide with a tidal range of approximately 1.5 feet. Electricity, water, fuel, WIFI, internet, and cable TV are available together with good security. In NE winds during “northers”, a swell can build up in the marina, making your stay somewhat less than comfortable.

This is a ‘port of entry’ and immigration and customs are located inside the marina. Behind the marina office, a short walk beside the ‘Waterworld Dolphin Park’ is the Cofresi Bar and Grill, an excellent restaurant serving a wide range of international cuisine. The large town of Puerto Plata for shopping and access to the Mount Isabel cable car is a twenty minute taxi ride away.

Puerto Plata (Commercial port)

admin — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 23:07:40 +0000

19°48.65N 70°41.48W
9.6 nm from Sosua

This commercial port, which is open to northeasterly weather, has little to offer a cruising yacht apart from an emergency stop. Preferential treatment is given to commercial traffic and although a ‘port of entry’ the officials are likely to treat you as an inconvenience to their busy schedule. Security is also an issue. Although you have access to large shops it is recommended that you bus in from elsewhere. Be prepared for a rough ride in this harbor in all senses of the word.

From Puerto Plata (Oceanworld marina) or by bus from Luperon you may care to visit Mount Isabel which rises 2673 feet above Puerto Plata town and has a cable car to take you to the summit where you will find a statue of Christ which resembles the one in Rio de Janeiro. Paths lead you through the botanical gardens and the view is magnificent.

It is a bit of a shock to the system when the cold hits you at the top. Take something warm to wear.

Sosua

admin — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 23:03:06 +0000

19°45.90N 70°31.68W
28.0 nm from San Juan

If conditions are suitable you may anchor in this small bay to the west of a coral reef off the public beach. There is twenty feet of water with sand over coral; the town is to the southeast.

Sosua is a pretty tourist town and boasts its own Synagogue, established by Jewish refugees during World War 11.

Do not anchor here in NE winds or East winds with a NE sea running.

If you do venture to stop at Sosua remember that it national park territory. Look for the officials who will probably come to you by dinghy upon your arrival. They will show you a buoy to tie to since anchoring is prohibited. Do not attempt to anchor and always keep a watchful eye on the weather. The locals do so and their knowledge and warning must be taken seriously.

On shore information:

Big Blue
Swiss Diving School
Tel: 809 571 2916 Eng / Esp / others

Merlin Diving Center
Tel: 809 571 4309 Eng / Esp / others

No related posts.

San Juan (Laguna Gri Gri)

admin — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 22:59:15 +0000

ENTRANCE TO “LAGUNA GRI GRI”

RIO SAN JUAN

19°39.00N 70°05.29W
51.0 nm from Puerto del Valle

It should be emphasized that conditions must be favorable for you to anchor at either of the two anchorages at San Juan.

The first anchorage is at the northeastern tip of the continuous reef which runs southwest to northeast in 15 feet of water over hard sand and rock. Keep in mind that neither anchorage is any good if there is a NE SEA running. Lat. 1939.3/ Lon. 7004.7

If there is a NE wind blowing, DO NOT EVEN THINK OF ANCHORING HERE!

The second anchorage is inside the southwestern end with the fishing fleet. Beware of the many sandbars. This is a mangrove area where fishermen take locals and tourists through the canals by boat. Lat. 1938.5/ Lon. 7005.3. This anchorage is entered by passing through a break in the reef. You will see the fishing fleet anchored in the general area.

If you choose to anchor here, you can leave someone on your boat, and take your dinghy and go through the Boatanical Park into Laguna Gri Gri. It will leave you at the dock in the quaint town, where you can purchase basics.

It is a delightful gunkholing experience and the canals filtering light through the foilage at midday is the basis for good poetry.

Do NOT try to go east around Cabo Frances Viejo, once the trades winds are up and blowing, unless you are the type that simply likes beating into the wind and averaging 2kts. Better to wait until the night lee to set in, at which point, the passage becomes tenable.

Puerto del Valle / Escondido

admin — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 22:57:49 +0000

PUERTO ESCONDIDO BEACHFRONT

Puerto del Valle is a port in name only. It is, however, a possible anchorage between Punta Leche and Cabo Cabron. Anchor in 25 feet of water.

19°18.48N 69°20.31W
12.0 nm from Bahia Ricon

The bottom is hard sand with rock. Unprotected from the northeast, beware of swells driving in from the north and northeast.

The area is surrounded by steep hills which give shelter from the west and southeast. There are two beaches separated by a large cave begging to be explored. On the southwestern beach are a few rustic shacks, dugout canoes and fishing boats.

This “anchorage” is located in Bahia Escocesa, which is a bay, using the term loosely”, at the NE end of the Dominican Republic. If the weather is very settled, you may anchor here, but never when the wind is E with a NE sea running, or when the wind and sea are from the NE. An anchorage like this, is for a very seasoned mariner, who knows a great deal about weather and understands the ramifications of what can happen when it changes. I would not want to be anchored here in the middle of the night, or for that matter at any time, if a front from the north came through. You would end up on the beach after your anchor tackle parted or your anchor dragged.